Toyota Mr2 Spyder Engine Mount Diagram
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Greetings Spyderfriends,
I've had my 2003 MR-2 for a little over a year now, and in the last few months, I had been noticing an increase in NVH. Considering it's 2016, I decided to replace all 4 mounts.
Searching replacing engine mounts on spyderchat generates threads for hood release issues, adding fender flares, something about a wet stereo, etc. so this pictorial with a somewhat verbose title should help the search engine to pop this thread on the first search attempt for those Spyder owners interesting in replacing their mounts. :biggthumpup:
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I would jack up the car and inspect all the mounts first before doing anything. It could be as simple as a through bolt has worked itself loose. Replacing the mounts is pretty self explanatory once you take a look at them. I would also check your tires as they are a huge source of NVH.
Also, for searches try putting in other terms, like replace engine mount or diy engine mount, if you can't find anything then start removing terms to be: diy mount or engine mount. You could also search for terms like kirkosauraus install or kirk install. Keep trying different terms until you find what you are looking for but I don't think you will be able to find a step by step guide with pictures of how to replace the engine mounts because it is pretty straightforward. The front/rear mounts are 5 bolts each and take 15 minutes max to replace. I've never done the left/right but the left is a little more work because you need to remove the stock airbox. The right seems very easy but I can't say for sure. I guess the only tip I have is that once you remove a motor mount the motor will sag down a tiny bit and the hole for the through bolt might not be aligned anymore. If that's the case then jack up the engine itself (not on the oil pan) to get it aligned again.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Safety First: Always support the car under jack stands, and wear protective goggles so you don't get oil and debris into your eyes. Eye infections aren't fun (I've had six of them), and rubbing your eyes with carcinogenic oily fingers doesn't make it better.
The Four Mounts:
Front Mount (12361-22050) located in the center of the car in front of the transmission ($48)
Left Side Mount (12372-22040) located under the battery ($72)
Right Side (12362-22040) clearly visible to the right of the engine ($108)
Rear Mount (12371-22080) mounts to subframe, visible from rear of car ($67)
Tools:
Basic metric wrench and socket set with 10, 12, 14, 15(?) and 17-mm sockets
3/8" flexible head socket wrench ($12)
7"-worth of socket extension(s)
18" (or longer) x 3/4" (ID) pipe ($8) to extend your socket wrench for the occasional stubborn bolts
14-mm combination wrench ($8)
OPTIONAL/RECOMMENDED: Floor jack (in addition to the OEM jack)
Jack stands and wheel chocks
10"x10"x1" piece of wood
How long does it take?
Taking my time and taking pictures and two trips to ACE to buy additional tools and chatting with friends, plus test drives between each mount replacement, plus cleaning the hard-to-reach engine areas took 6 hours. If I had to do this again on another MR2 with - again - basic hand tools and a couple floor jacks, it would definitely be a 2-hour job and maybe less.
Disclaimer
This is for information purposes only. Only skilled/trained mechanics should perform maintenance on cars, for everyone's safety. I'm not a professional mechanic.
Hopefully this pictorial will alleviate some of the uncertainty regarding replacing the mounts and provide other girls and guys the confidence to do it yourself. Aside from two stubborn bolts, pleasantly, nothing was really difficult. So grab yourself by the balls - or ovaries, or both if you have them - and getter dun!
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Front Mount 12361-22050
This mount is located in front of the transmission pretty much in the center of the car. A 14-mm socket removes the 3 bolts holding the mount to the frame, and either a 14- or 15-mm socket (don't remember which one it was) is needed for the bolt going through the mount.
This was the only mount where I could just physically push up and lift the engine/transmission about a half-inch up to get the bolt through the new mount. i.e. I didn't need to use a jack to lift the engine/transmission.
When securing all the new mounts, it's good to follow this order:
1) Thread the mounting bolts about 1/4" into their holes, then insert the long (through) bolt through the mount.
2) Thread the mounting bolts each a little at a time until each one is properly tightened (i.e. Don't fully thread one bolt, then fully thread the next one, etc.).
3) Tighten the nut for the through bolt.
Also important: When removing bolts, always make sure the socket is positioned and maintained flush to the bolt to avoid stripping the bolt.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Left Side Mount 12372-22040
This mount is located underneath the battery and tray.
From the engine bay, use a 14-mm socket and extension to remove the two vertically-oriented bolts. For the two horizontally-oriented bolts, due to the design of the mount, a regular 14-mm socket on a wrench won't fit, so I got under the car and used a 14-mm combination wrench.
Upon replacing the new mount, it was necessary to use a floor jack under the transmission to raise it about 40mm to insert the through bolt.
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Right Side Mount 12362-22040
This one was interesting.
The forward 14mm bolt requires 7" worth of socket extension(s), a flexible head socket wrench, and a 18" pipe to extend your wrench. This combination is necessary in order to fit 1) under the top of the engine bay, 2) over the valve cover, and 3) provide an approximately 90-deg. angle to undo the bolt.
There's also a 14mm bolt inside the fender well.
The 17mm upper bolt required all 18" of the pipe and my pulling with scary torque at 21" from the fulcrum point to crack the bolt loose. This one required some serious strength.
For the average person or someone with a smaller frame, I highly recommend investing in something closer to a 30" pipe extension. This was officially the second most ridiculously overtightened bolt I've ever undone, labelled "SUPER-B*TCH" after I undid it in the picture.
Again: When removing bolts, always make sure the socket is positioned and maintained flush onto the bolt, otherwise the bolt could easily be stripped.
Using a 10"x10"x1" piece of wood between the floor jack and the oil pan, I then lifted the engine by about an inch to slide in the new mount. It's important to raise the right side of the engine/transmission only enough to allow replacement of the mount. The engine/transmission should never be fully supported by jacking the oil pan.
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Rear Mount 12371-22080
The rear mount is easily visible from the rear of the car. Placing a jack under the transmission will allow the transmission to be raised up about an inch to allow easy removal of the through bolt and the four mounting bolts.
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Thanks for posting this! So the passenger side mount is held to the body by only two bolts? One from up top and one from inside the wheel well?
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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks for posting this! So the passenger side mount is held to the body by only two bolts? One from up top and one from inside the wheel well?
Haloruler64,
The mount actually has three mounting points. There's another 14mm bolt which I described as the "forward 14mm bolt," which you'll see if you look directly over the mount. This is the bolt that requires 7" of socket extension to remove to achieve ~90-deg. of angle and fit under the top of the engine bay and over the valve cover to allow you to undo the bolt. 8" of socket extension (with the wrench head and the socket itself) won't fit under the top of the engine bay; 6" of extension might be doable, but it'll require a ton more torque and somewhat unsafe 120-deg. angle on your wrench to undo that bolt. Just be prepared with the right tools, and it's a fairly quick task.
The pics I took don't readily show the "forward" leg of the mount, but the idea was to show that the old mount was sunken in about 1/4" compared to the new one.
Hope that helps!
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Oh, I see it now. Thanks!
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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Annnnd... Success!
Search: replacing engine mounts
Search: replacing transmission mounts
Simple.
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Great Write-up! Thanks so much!
I need to know what are the common symptoms of bad motor mounts in our spyder? Also, what is the recommended miles/ years should they be replaced.
I have 03 70K miles. Feel like the engine is all over the place when I engage 1st gear from a complete stop; and the whole car rocks back and forth. Always felt reverse gear didn't rock as much and is much more responsive to throttle.
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Great Write-up! Thanks so much!
I need to know what are the common symptoms of bad motor mounts in our spyder? Also, what is the recommended miles/ years should they be replaced.
I have 03 70K miles. Feel like the engine is all over the place when I engage 1st gear from a complete stop; and the whole car rocks back and forth. Always felt reverse gear didn't rock as much and is much more responsive to throttle.
Bad engine mounts cause excessive vibration, noise, and other such symptoms. It also allows the engine to rock more, which means torque isn't transferred instantly to the road. First gear is a bit rough on these cars, you can make it buck if you let off the throttle at low RPM, staying in second is best.
As for mileage, no specific mileage. By 125k, all four of my Corolla's motor mounts were torn to a different degree, rear mount being badly damaged. My 130k 2000 MR2 has bad mounts as well, though I'm too cheap to drop $300 on new mounts at the moment.
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Great Write-up! Thanks so much!
I need to know what are the common symptoms of bad motor mounts in our spyder? Also, what is the recommended miles/ years should they be replaced.
I have 03 70K miles. Feel like the engine is all over the place when I engage 1st gear from a complete stop; and the whole car rocks back and forth. Always felt reverse gear didn't rock as much and is much more responsive to throttle.
You can look at the mount rubber to see if any cracks or deterioration has occurred or engage the clutch with the foot on the brakes and have someone look and see if the engine is torquing excessively.
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Keep in mind that seeing damaged rubber in the mounts is difficult while they're in place. The pressure of the engine likes to hide damage. Once they're out, the damage is very obvious.
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Great Write-up! Thanks so much!
I need to know what are the common symptoms of bad motor mounts in our spyder? Also, what is the recommended miles/ years should they be replaced.
I have 03 70K miles. Feel like the engine is all over the place when I engage 1st gear from a complete stop; and the whole car rocks back and forth. Always felt reverse gear didn't rock as much and is much more responsive to throttle.
rebelscientist,
Most Spyders are probably going to be riding a little rough these days.
The combination of the years of the engine/transmission sitting on the mounts, elution of the VOCs from the rubber and massive heat radiating from our fanless engine bays (brilliant design, Toyota!) causes the rubber mounts to sag and harden, all of which contributes to a really harsh ride. All the mounts I replaced had hardened rubber as compared to the newly purchased mounts.
I replaced the mounts in the following order:
1st - rear mount
2nd - front mount
3rd - left side mount
last - right side mount
..and I performed test drives after installing each new mount to gauge the NVH improvements using the nociceptors in my spine and my ear drum decibel meter, as sitting in the driver's seat.
The most significant reduction in NVH were as follows, along with my *highly subjective* percentage of NVH reduction:
1st - front mount (50%)
2nd - left side mount (30%)
3rd - right side mount (10%)
4th - rear mount (10%)
Bad engine mounts cause excessive vibration, noise, and other such symptoms. It also allows the engine to rock more, which means torque isn't transferred instantly to the road. First gear is a bit rough on these cars, you can make it buck if you let off the throttle at low RPM, staying in second is best.
As for mileage, no specific mileage. By 125k, all four of my Corolla's motor mounts were torn to a different degree, rear mount being badly damaged. My 130k 2000 MR2 has bad mounts as well, though I'm too cheap to drop $300 on new mounts at the moment.
Haloruler64,
I recommend starting with replacing the front mount.It's ~$47+tax+shipping, and actually the easiest to replace in the sense that the 3 mounting bolts are removable with a 14mm socket wrench and you probably won't need a jack to lift the engine/transmission when installing the new mount. This mount is closest to the passengers, so it makes sense that replacing it would have the largest impact on NVH.
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I wouldn't recommend changing one mount. They should be changed in pairs, otherwise the second half of the pair will still be torn and causing excessive engine movement, putting extra stress on the new mount.
On the 7th generation Corolla, and I know it's different but not too different, the right mount is what dampens the most vibrations. Replacing just that mount makes a huge difference. It's fluid filled, $160 discounted. However, the mount that takes the most abuse is the rear mount, it's the worst damaged of the four. Changing that makes shifting far more responsive.
Source: https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/replacing-engine-mounts-and-replacing-transmission-mounts-lots-of-pics.109729/
Posted by: tarentarenaskeye0271779.blogspot.com
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